Victorian Roses Ladies Riding Society: Victorian Parasols

A parasol is a light, usually small, umbrella that is used as protection from the scorching heat of the sun. The name, parasol comes from its Old Italian French name, parasole, which is derived from the Italian word parare, which means prepare or ward off, and the Latin word, sol, which means sun or sunlight. Since then, "parasol" has come to denote specifically a shade that protects against the sun, while "umbrella" indicates an item that provides protection from the rain.

By the Victorian era parasols were often larger as they were by then more utilitarian and designed to protect the face from sunburn since a suntan was a common vulgar look for a real gentle lady.

In the 1600s, especially in France and England, parasols were made of the finest French laces and silk and have hand-carved handles that are made of wood or ivory. Between 1700 and 1800, long-handled lace parasols, probably in gold and silver which were the popular lace colors at such time – became the object of beauty among their kind. Between 1800 and 1900, small parasols, alongside fringed umbrellas, long-handled or walking-stick lace and silk parasols, and gold-tipped lace umbrellas rose to fame with smaller hats to match.

The history of parasols can be traced back to the 16th century following the arrival of the Chinese silk parasols in Europe in the early 16th century via the Silk Road, probably by means of trading, and the rapid development of lace thereon in the mid-16th century as an openwork fabric sewn from a single thread and needle (needle lace) or with multiple threads (bobbin lace).

Lace parasols have had a long and rich history in Europe, especially during the 1600s and early 1900s. Apparently, it is from these eras, which saw the height of the opulence and elegance in Europe's society, parasols are associated with items of luxury, feminine class, and elegance.

Regardless of their expensive price, women owned lace parasols in different colors to match every outfit – a long dress gown or dress with fitted top and full, heavy skirt, which was the central clothing for women at the time. When riding in a carriage, ladies would make sure that their driver pulls down the carriage's convertible top so her lace parasol is seen.

Parasols from the 1840’s and early 1850’s are somewhat larger, and longer than those of the late ‘50’s and 1860’s. The ribs would be made of cane or baleen, which make them fragile, but our ancestors didn’t throw out their old things; they put them away, and many old parasols have repairs, proving that women took care of their expensive belongings.

The later 1840’s and early ‘50’s, most parasols had folding handles, long slender sticks, silk covers and long silk fringes. Colors ranged from browns, through greens, and blues, but nearly all dark shades. Fringes matched or coordinated. Brocades were common, and plain silks with woven satin stripes at the edge we used. There usually was a small ivory cap on the end of the handle, and the finial at the top was often ornately carved, and could be up to 4” of more long. Typical lengths – including the finial – could be 29 - 34” or even a bit more.

Midway through the ‘50’s, the parasol began to decrease in size. As the lady’s bonnets became smaller, and closer to her head, the parasol followed suit. Sticks were shorter, and little hooks at the end became common. Also, brighter colors appeared, and plaids, ikat ribbon types and brocades were popular. Short fringes were still common, but ruffles, and pinked edges were coming into vogue. In this period you begin to see the tiny finger-sized hook on the end of the handle, and often an ivory ring through the finial. Also available at this time, we begin to see parasols covered in white and other light and bright colors, with hand and machine made black lace overlays. However they are covered, the overall length is not more than about 26”, with ribs of 8” 11”.

Here parasols start to divide into two groups. The single most common 1860’s American parasol is a quite simple marquis (tilting) style with a folding handle. The cover is black, and it is lined most often in black; but sometimes in white, cream or pale pink. Earliest examples have very plain handles painted black with a ball, onion, lozenge, or plain hook at the end. As the era progressed, the handles became more ornate, often with intricate carving; but still covered in black. Many have ruffles around the edge, and some have two or three ruffles, and some have pinked edges.

I have never seen one of this style with fringe. These seem to have been sold at department stores in major cities so there are many still around. Frames were sturdy, and ribs were made of steel painted

black.

The other main type of parasols available during this time, is similar in frame, but has brighter silk covers made of taffeta in checks, plaids, and beautifully printed “ribbon” designs. Handles often have that little hook on the end as well. Many of these seem to have come from France and England where there was no war going on, and no shortages of fabrics

Another type of began to come into vogue just post war as bonnets became tiny and perched atop the

head. It has a straight handle, and is very tiny with brightly colored silk covers, and pale silk with lace overlays. The frames are made of steel, often with brass sticks and chip carved wood handles and finials; or lovely carved ivory or bone handles and finials. This style can be documented to 1867.

By the mid 1870s, Handles became as long as walking sticks. (See 1875 fashion plate, below) handles continued to stay long into the 1880s and beyond. (See 1882 fashion plate, right).

Towards the end of the 19th century, shafts grew longer and decoration simpler. The maximum shaft length of up to 45 inches was reached around 1910-1915, when they went up to chest level of an average-height lady of the time. Diameters also grew in proportion. Until well into the 20th century, bent handles as we know them from umbrellas were not used for parasols: Straight handles were predominant and more or less made up the distinction between parasol and umbrella, along with the cover, which tended to be black and undecorated for umbrellas, and the length/diameter ratio, which was about 1/1 for parasols and closer to 1/2 for umbrellas.