A parasol
is a light, usually small, umbrella that is used as protection from the
scorching heat of the sun. The name, parasol comes from its Old Italian French
name, parasole, which is derived from the Italian word parare,
which means prepare or ward off, and the Latin word, sol, which means
sun or sunlight. Since then, "parasol" has come to
denote specifically a shade that protects against the sun, while
"umbrella" indicates an item that provides protection from the rain.
By the Victorian era parasols were
often larger as they were by then more utilitarian and designed to protect the
face from sunburn since a suntan was a common vulgar look for a real gentle
lady.
In
the 1600s,
especially in France and England, parasols were made of the finest French laces
and silk and have hand-carved handles that are made of wood or ivory. Between 1700 and 1800, long-handled lace parasols, probably in gold and
silver which were the popular lace colors at such time – became the object of
beauty among their kind. Between 1800 and 1900, small parasols, alongside fringed umbrellas,
long-handled or walking-stick lace and silk parasols, and gold-tipped lace
umbrellas rose to fame with smaller hats to match.
The history of
parasols can be traced back to the 16th century following the
arrival of the Chinese silk parasols in Europe in the early 16th century via
the Silk Road, probably by means of trading, and the rapid development of lace
thereon in the mid-16th century as an openwork fabric sewn from a single thread
and needle (needle lace) or with multiple threads (bobbin lace).
Regardless of their expensive price, women owned lace parasols in different colors to match every outfit – a long dress gown or dress with fitted top and full, heavy skirt, which was the central clothing for women at the time. When riding in a carriage, ladies would make sure that their driver pulls down the carriage's convertible top so her lace parasol is seen.
Parasols from the 1840’s and early 1850’s are somewhat
larger, and longer than those of the late ‘50’s and 1860’s. The ribs would be
made of cane or baleen, which make them fragile, but our ancestors didn’t throw
out their old things; they put them away, and many old parasols have repairs, proving that women took care of their expensive belongings.
The later 1840’s and early ‘50’s, most parasols had folding
handles, long slender sticks, silk covers and long silk fringes. Colors
ranged from browns, through greens, and blues, but nearly all dark shades.
Fringes matched or coordinated. Brocades were common, and plain silks
with woven satin stripes at the edge we used. There usually was a small ivory
cap on the end of the handle, and the finial at the top was often ornately carved,
and could be up to 4” of more long. Typical lengths – including the
finial – could be 29 - 34” or even a bit more.
Midway through the ‘50’s, the parasol began to decrease in
size. As the lady’s bonnets became smaller, and closer to her head, the
parasol followed suit. Sticks were shorter, and little hooks at the end became
common. Also, brighter colors appeared, and plaids, ikat ribbon types and
brocades were popular. Short fringes were still common, but ruffles, and
pinked edges were coming into vogue. In this period you begin to see the tiny
finger-sized hook on the end of the handle, and often an ivory ring through the
finial. Also available at this time, we begin to see parasols covered in white
and other light and bright colors, with hand and machine made black lace
overlays. However they are covered, the overall length is not more than
about 26”, with ribs of 8” 11”.
Here parasols start to divide into two groups. The
single most common 1860’s American parasol is a quite simple marquis (tilting)
style with a folding handle. The cover is black, and it is lined most
often in black; but sometimes in white, cream or pale pink. Earliest
examples have very plain handles painted black with a ball, onion, lozenge, or
plain hook at the end. As the era progressed, the handles became more
ornate, often with intricate carving; but still covered in black. Many
have ruffles around the edge, and some have two or three ruffles, and some have
pinked edges.
I have never seen one of this style with fringe.
These seem to have been sold at department stores in major cities so there are
many still around. Frames were sturdy, and ribs were made of steel
painted
black.
The other main type of parasols available during this time,
is similar in frame, but has brighter silk covers made of taffeta in checks,
plaids, and beautifully printed “ribbon” designs. Handles often have that
little hook on the end as well. Many of these seem to have come from
France and England where there was no war going on, and no shortages of fabrics
Another type of began to come into vogue just post war as
bonnets became tiny and perched atop the
head. It has a straight handle,
and is very tiny with brightly colored silk covers, and pale silk with lace
overlays. The frames are made of steel, often with brass sticks and chip
carved wood handles and finials; or lovely carved ivory or bone handles and
finials. This style can be documented to 1867.
By the mid 1870s, Handles became as long as walking sticks. (See 1875 fashion plate, below) handles continued to stay long into the 1880s and beyond. (See 1882 fashion plate, right).
Towards the end of the 19th century, shafts
grew longer and decoration simpler. The maximum shaft length of up to
45 inches was reached around 1910-1915, when they went up to chest
level of an average-height
lady of the time. Diameters also grew in proportion. Until well into
the 20th
century, bent handles as we know them from umbrellas were not used for
parasols:
Straight handles were predominant and more or less made up the
distinction between
parasol and umbrella, along with the cover, which tended to be black
and undecorated
for umbrellas, and the length/diameter ratio, which was about 1/1 for
parasols
and closer to 1/2 for umbrellas.
Handles
Carved Ivory, bone, wood
Bejeweled, ornate
Silver, Gold, Mother of pearl
Type of parasols
Carriage Parasol (folding)
Walking Parasol
Marquis (Tilt & Folding)
Submitted by Velvet Rose
