Women cannot do without their purses. Whether carried for utility or as a status symbol, handbags are essential to the modern woman. They carry our keys, our phones, essentially, they carry our lives. But as practical and necessary an accessory as it seems, the purse has not always been part of a woman’s wardrobe. Some women see it as a way to signify their wealth and others see it as a frivolous fashion item, but the history of the handbag reveals much about the history of woman, of her movement out of the home and into the world.Pre 1800 Pouches and Pockets
The purse began as a symbol more than as a useful accessory. In ancient times wedding purses filled with money were often given to couples as a symbol of the womb, which would hopefully soon be filled as well. So from the beginning the purse has been associated with womanhood, femininity and female sexuality. Handbags have been essential to fashion history ever since people have had something precious to carry around with them and only the items have changed over time.
The very first mention in written literature comes from the 14th century, where Egyptian hieroglyphs show pouches carried around the waist. Bags were attached to what were called "girdles" which were fastened to the waist. Embroidery and jewels adorned these articles and were used to show status - the richer the person, the more elaborate the bag.
In the 16th century, handbags took on more of an air of practicality with the use of everyday materials such as leather with a drawstring fastener on top. During this period, cloth bags were used that were made larger and used by travelers and carried diagonally across the body. Right, leather bag with loop on top for belt via Museum of Brno.
Also in the 16th century, wealthy individuals carried their money in pouches that dangled from a belt or girdle. These pouches were so easily stolen that soon the trend in pockets arose, which allowed a man or woman to hide his or her possessions on the body and out of thieves’ reach. A woman’s pockets might be hidden within the folds of her skirt or attached to a band under her skirt. It was something hidden and unreachable to all but those who had a very intimate association with her because to see what was in a woman’s pockets you had to literally be up her skirt.
The 17th century saw more variety and both fashionable men and women
carried small purses with more complex shapes. Young girls were taught
embroidery as a very necessary skill to make them marriageable and we
see the rise of beautiful and unique stitched artwork in handbags. 
Left. In the 16th through 18th centuries, pockets were worn underneath the petticoat, which had side openings to enable one to reach into the pocket.In the late 18th century, women’s clothing silhouettes got sleeker and simpler with a reduction in the amount of underclothing worn by women. This left no room for pockets so women began to carry small, often silk embroidered drawstring bags or purses called reticules, or 'ridicules'. These elaborately embroidered pouches allowed a woman to carry the necessary feminine weapons- perfume, powder, handkerchief and a fan for flirting- but usually held no money, which was earned and controlled by the men.
The level of decoration of a woman’s reticule was an indication of her family’s wealth and although not as private as a pocket, the reticule was still considered a woman’s hiding place whose contents were revealed to few. Later in the 18th century, handbags got larger, and more eclectic. Bags were made in a variety of shape and with variety of fabrics. Women had a different bag for every occasion and every fashion magazine had arguments on the proper carrying of these purses. The magazines included patterns for making bags and women began making purses to match particular outfits.
1800-1900s
The Victorian era brought a large variety of bags. Bags often were made to coordinate with the outfit and were now made of many different fabrics. By the mid 1800s, bags changed from simply drawstring styles, to a popular flat style, that could be made in either a circular or square shape and was generally heavily decorated with beading and needlework. Patterns and directions for making these types of purses became popular in ladies magazines at that time.
There were also smaller versions, used as coin purses which often included a metal fastener. By the early 20th century, women would carry bags every time they left home, even for short periods while hats were popular accessories that began to lose popularity by the early 20th century, handbags became increasingly popular. The success of the handbag has much to do with the fact that it has adapted to the needs of the time.
The term "handbag" first came into use in the early 1900's and generally referred to hand-held luggage bags usually carried by men. These were an inspiration for new bags that became popularized for women, including handbags with complicated fasteners, internal compartments, and locks. With this new fashion, jewelers got into the act with special compartments for opera glasses, cosmetics, and fans.
Left, 1860s woman with leather purse.
Right, 1886 fashionable woman in a studio photograph with purse.
Because men’s fashions of the time were much unchanged and still included the pockets needed for a man to store his things, the purse was seen as a purely feminine accessory that served to exhibit not only the increasing differences in men’s and women’s attire but also the distinct separation in the roles of men and women. Men were expected to dress neatly and respectably as was acceptable in the work place while women were permitted to dress sweetly and romantically in keeping with their fragility and role as a decoration.
As upper class women became more mobile and found themselves away from home for longer periods of time, they needed a better way to carry the necessities. A shopping trip to the newly created department stores or to meet friends for tea required more than a dainty bag could hold. These new bags first came in the form of small suitcases, square with handles and locks, often made by companies that specialized in leather goods like saddles and luggage. To fulfill this new need, Companies like Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Hermes began to produce bags expressly for women and the designer handbag was born.
By the early 20th century when slim skirts came into fashion, pockets for women were totally passe and handbags were becoming more and more popular. During this time most middle-class women were homemakers and did not have much to carry so purses, as well as the women that carried them, were still often seen as decorative. After World War I much of this changed, as wealthy women were outnumbered by women with a more practical attitude toward life who aspired to do more than remain at home. Right, 1911 photo by Bassano.
The 1920’s brought with them a new female sensibility: opposition to the unnecessary embellishment of Victorianism and to the demure and servile attitude of the Victorian woman. Modern women, or flappers, shed their flouncy curls and elaborate clothes in favor of a clean, boyish aesthetic and their handbag of choice, the clutch, was reflective of the 1920’s woman: sleek, sharp and without the frills and softness of her Victorian counterparts. Although clutches could not hold much and were difficult to carry, the streamlined look continued to dominate handbag design from new houses like Lanvin and Patou. In 1933 Van Cleef and Arpels took the clutch to the next level of glamour in their creation of the minaudiere. These small clutches, also made by Cartier, were crafted of gold or sterling silver an encrusted with jewels and quickly became popular among socialites and film stars.
1800-1930 Carpet Bags & Clutches
As new modes of transportation developed and people began to travel, the precursor to the modern
handbag really came into being. To be away from home for long meant that men and women needed a way for their things to travel as well, thus suitcases, hatboxes, and dressing cases were created. Carpet bags were the travel bags of choice for much of the late nineteenth century due to their roominess and durability, but as practical as the carpet bag was, it was not elegant and did nothing to differentiate the wealthy from the lower classes.A French gentleman named Louis Vuitton seized this opportunity. In 1854 he designed a trunk made from iron and a waterproofed canvas. This luxurious travel case was elegant, sturdy, stackable and able to withstand the rigors of travel. It was instantly a hit with the wealthy as it served to distinguish them as elite. In 1896 the Louis Vuitton monogram canvas was introduced and is the brand’s most recognized symbol to this day.
Submitted by Irish Rose
