Victorian Catalogue Shopping, Part One - Clothing Patterns

The following is part one of a two part post on how women in the 1800s used catalogues to purchase
clothing patterns to sew at home. Clothing manufacturers were the first sewing machine customers, and used them to produce the first ready-to-wear clothing and shoes.  This will be discussed in part two of this blog post.

BRIEF HISTORY

Sewing machines in some form were invented in the late 1700s, consisting of an arm with a strong needle that could be punched through leather and cranked by hand or by treadle.  Variations of this machine were designed to aid the manufacture of various leather goods, including saddles and bridles, and was used for sewing ship sails.  The first widely used sewing machine was invented by Barthelemy Thimonnier, a French tailor, in 1829. His machine sewed straight seams using a chain stitch. In 1830, he opened the first machine-based clothing manufacturing company in the world, to create army uniforms for the French Army.

In the 1860s consumers began purchasing sewing machines, and they became very common in middle-class homes. Owners were much more likely to spend free time with their machines to make and mend clothing for their families than to visit friends, and women's magazines and household guides such as Mrs. Beeton's offered dress patterns and instructions.   A sewing machine could produce a man's shirt in about one hour, compared to 14 1/2 hours by hand.   Wikipedia

Manufacturers like Singer hired women to demonstrate the machines in store windows and at fairs, pictured women prominently in their advertising, manufactured toy sewing machines for girls, and offered sewing machines at half price to ministers’ wives, who they knew would make the machines available to charity sewing circles. Women quickly mastered them, and by 1900 almost every middle-class home had a sewing machine. (1)

THE PATTERNS

By the mid 1800s, "Women’s magazines were gaining in popularity and many of them printed patterns.  But these early patterns and illustrations were printed on small magazine pages and were difficult to use. By the 1850s, Godey’s Lady’s Book, printed full-sized paper patterns, but in one size, with no scale measurements for enlarging; the reader still had to size the patterns to her own figure. Eventually, foldout patterns, printed in full scale, were issued as periodical supplements in The World of Fashions – and other magazines soon followed suit.

Some magazines were limited in space, so the "complete pattern" pieces were put all on one page - on top of one another.  Imagine tracing each individual pattern piece from this page, and then try and size it up to fit you! 

 A corset pattern below, and right, an 1879 Dinner Bodice.

Thank goodness for individual pattern packages.

Ebenezer Butterick developed the mass-produced, tissue paper pattern, sized according to a proportional grading system. Butterick and his family cut and folded each pattern and began mass-producing ladies dress patterns, and sold 6 million clothing patterns by 1871. A few years later, James McCall began developing clothing patterns.  It was now possible to create a well-fitted, stylish dress using these mass-produced paper patterns."(2)
In 1873, Butterick's "The Delineator" magazine served as a marketing tool for Butterick patterns and discussed fashion and fabrics, including advice for home sewers.

Pattern Catalogues were circulated by mail, by passing along to family and friends, and even borrowed from lending libraries.  Once the patterns were ordered and mailed to you, they were shared as well.    There were several pattern companies who put catalogues together, such as Butterick and McCall (which are still being produced today).  Sewing machine companies would offer patterns in their catalogues, to purchase along with their machines.   There were small company catalogues you could order from, such as Demorest Fashions.

If you were not an experienced sewer, catalogues also sold booklets on how to tailor and fit your newly purchased patterns.  These guides were essential to the home sewer.

In 1878, This catalogue of patterns showed drawings of the completed garment, and women everywhere poured over them for the latest fashion.  You could order complete patterns for 20-60 cents.

This 1875 catalogue by the Domestic Sewing Machine Company called Paper Fashions, says "Orders by mail will receive special attention."

Autumn 1886 Butterick Catalogue

Toward the end of the Victorian era, patterns were packaged in individual envelopes.   Here is a McCall pattern for a walking skirt.

 

  Haven't fabric shopped yet?  This could also be done by catalogue.  If your local stores did not carry dress goods, they would most likely have books of fabric swatches for you to look through.  Pick your favorite and order directly from the catalogue.


















Part Two, Ready Made Clothing, will be posted soon!


(1)  https://millmuseum.org/sewing-revolution/

(2)  https://journal.alabamachanin.com/2016/05/history-of-patternmaking/


Submitted by Shenandoah Rose

The Layers Beneath

Have you ever wondered what is underneath those Victorian bustle gowns?  Lets take a look.

The proper lady didn't just pull a dress over her head, she created a foundation and shape, depending on the decade she is dressing for.  The Victorian era during the 1870s and 1880s had three very distinct silhouettes:

Early Bustle era 1868 to 1876 

Early Bustle dresses were very full, with flounces and poofs. To support the drapery a small crinoline with a steel frame was attached to the back at the waist.  Around 1870 the bustle shows festooning drapery almost completely down the front or with an apron effect.


Mid, or Natural Form era  1877 to 1882

 The poof diminished greatly. The fullness in the skirt  was now behind the knees at the back.  The gowns were long and fitted tightly on the hips, which released into trains. Skirts became narrower and the bodice longer. This gave the body a slim and tall look.

Late Bustle era 1883 to 1890

 The bustle came back bigger than before in 1883.  But this time, the front of the skirt stayed slim, and all the show was in the back.  The bodice was tailored, the skirt front was straight with asymmetrical draping, and the back of the skirt was huge.

Now lets see what's under all of this.

1.  In any era, stockings go on first.  They are tied above the knee with ribbons or garters.

2.  Next, split drawers and a chemise, or combinations, a one piece garment with a split or buttoned opening for ease.  Combinations were especially nice in the Natural Form era, as they were less bulky under the form fitting ensembles.

 

3.  Boots/shoes were next!  Buttoned or laced.

4.  The corset followed.  They elongated and slimmed more of the hip towards the end of the 1880s. 

Left is the corset of 1875. Center is an 1880 corset with a spoon busk, designed to flatten the stomach.  Right is an 1888 ad for Coraline Corsets.




5. Over the corset and drawers a lightweight petticoat and corset cover. The corset cover softens the boning, and helps keep the dress bodice clean.

6. Next, for Early and Late Bustle eras, is your crinoline or cage bustle. For Natural Form, generally only a small pad is used.

 

Left, an 1870s Early Bustle.  Center, an 1883  Late Bustle "lobster tail" .   Right, an 1887 bustle.   




7.  A petticoat or two to soften the bustle.  Left, an 1872 Early Bustle petticoat, middle is an 1882 Natural Form petticoat with built in pad.   On the right is the 1888 Late Bustle petticoat, very full in the back.

 

8.  Now comes the actual skirt of the outfit,put on over the head.

9.  If an overskirt is part of the outfit, it goes on next.

10.  Finally, the bodice is put on. The bodice is always boned, and most have waist tapes inside.  The tape helps keep the bodice in place, and takes the strain off your buttons.

In closing, here are two fantastic videos by Prior Attire, the Victorian Dressmaker.
She dresses in early bustle from the underpinnings out.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=dXS09skBTqA

She dresses in late bustle from the underpinnings out.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXkmtAbrDLU

Submitted by:  Shenandoah Rose